Archives for posts with tag: Sewing

DC Mfg Cutting KnifeAs you plan a start-up or expand an existing line you may be interested in outsourcing the fabric cutting as a part process to increase yield and enhance productivity.

Bulk cutting is a great “next step” way to grow your business.

Our experience in the trade is a valuable resource to #YVR Fashion apparel brands where the careful handling of the fabric and a steady hand is applied to moving the business of apparel making forward. So important this aspect to garment making we have added a second shift.

To grow your business schedule a “second shift” fabric cutting order (yes, we can come to you) to arrange Pick-up or delivery of textile/ cut goods, call or text Direct Current Sales – Vancouver 604.442.3714

Send an email to Direct Current Manufacturing Inc.
DirectCurrentSales@gmail.com

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Finding a good solution to manufacturing apparel in Vancouver, BC can be a challenge for new and existing clothing and other textile product producers.  At Direct Current Sales – we understand the access to skilled labour resource problem as an opportunity to grow cooperatively in the trade. das_logo-and-wordmark

Direct Current Manufacturing Inc., was established in 1999 (2000) to fill the void between the need demand and availability to quick response, local garment making.  The benefits of expanding resources for apparel made in Canada is desirable for a host of reasons to include new job creation and stewardship toward sustainable business practices.Dallas age Three Blue Rainsuit

Next to achieving a great fit, the “straight of goods” is perhaps one of the most important quality control concerns.  And proper patterns are at the foundation of all products made.

To ensure cost control in production it is a very good idea to make sure every detail is well refined before spending on bulk sewing labour begins.  The necessity to prototype and design is a craft reliant on a willingness to work out component details as a major part in the process of pre-production.

In practice, this is a chore that is best given to the brand/ project manager to administrate in a format that prevents guesswork by pattern makers who are draftspeople with infinite options.  For this reason, it becomes the project managers chore to supervise and table the desired goal with answers limiting the back and forth with patterning and production that if not properly respected will lead to frustration, inflated cost and in the worst case delay and poor results will lead to waste and work stoppage.knit Jacket Pattern Resource-medium

We hope this post will be useful to explain the importance of what is sometimes referred to as a condition “standard in the trade”. We think making apparel is akin to horse racing.  It’s a rich person game.  If you have to ask repeatedly “How much” then we would recommend greater research be applied to plan before spending.

2008 cocktaildress2-131pixProjects fail when questions that inevitably arise if a design is not fully thought out by the creators and business managers.  Let us face it upfront – a good sewing shop is hard to find.  The best sewing shops have little or no time for problem-solving.  We sometimes find that clients sending out a “Tech pack” feel that their job is done and the responsibility has been handed off to production to handle.  In our experience, that attitude alone does not work without consideration to the time investment of the handler tasked with receiving the plans – especially if those plans are in any way incomplete.  This is an important point to review when asking for a price.  Who pays for the customer interface?  The breakpoint here is the administrative fee relative to getting the job ready for the cutting table that should be reflected in the pre-production budget allowed.

Time is money and the Cut make and trim per unit is sewing shop labour so beware the bottleneck that can crush a timeline or other sensitive R&D hope.  Remember garbage in = garbage out.

Contact us for solutions to growth. For help with your business apparel design ambition #MadeinCanada email info@directcurrentmfg.com2015-Ancillary Production is generating Income

 

 

 

Cadilac Brand SustainSustainability in Apparel will require Environmental Stewardship and Significant Social Responsibility to Equity Brand Interests.

With Domestic Garment Manufacturing visible to Statistics Canada as a high potential growth Industry.  Canadians have challenges to face beyond the estimated 35 Kilo (80lbs) per person of textile waste entering landfills each year.

If the consumer economy is dependent on disposable “Fast Fashion” the natural inclination is to seek out “Made in Canada” as part the “Act Local – Think Global” catchphrase works to promote.  But in this “ethical” “sweatshop-free” coin a phrase put a sticker on it. promote you have a blue box ambition.  Are we really getting anywhere?

What is Direct Current Manufacturing Inc. doing with regards to sustainability was a question recently put forward by a student study project originating from Queens University motivate me as a CEO to apply additional effort to a topic that we have been participating to follow along with in spirit since about 2010 but since that time the industry as a whole has in my opinion not very much progressed.  Attending to respect the agreement made to answer a short list of question several hours of self-study and a review was given to the topic in preparation for my interview.

By adopting an expanded view we discovered an ability to approach the conversation with open-mindedness with new thinking and answer to say in fact there was nothing being done towards sustainability and this reality fostered thought for greater concern and the development window to a pathway for greater change was opened.

I want to thank this student who was artful in reaching out to me at my desk to request participation in the simple survey questions being asked.  It has always been my habit to reply or contribute in some way even if only to satisfy the curriculum criteria need in brief the student can carry on to say they have completed their task.

At other times I have invested greater amounts of time to help students complete there projects.  The dividend has been received in long-lasting relationships, kindly thank you notes and on one occasion a coupon for a few Big Mac’s arrived sent from a father who appreciated our input in his daughters project the man a MacDonalds Franchise Owner operating a business that is also uniquely engaged in this topic… 15 years ago I thought very little of it and saved the compliment as a souvenir.

Sometimes I refuse student requests if the query is empty as I am reluctant to the casual take of hypothetical requests for quotations in speculation of some imaginary upstart… Predictable as this is – when that time of year comes and the business professor releases the group to spam my inbox pretending to be clients seeking a quote I cringe and reluctantly reply to state policy with regret – I opt out.

What this student did was stimulate thought.  A credit to her course master.  I became the student and my experience guided thought to better understand the potential of what can be done.

The resulting potential is great and I look forward to implementation and sharing with others.  A Project Plan has been created.  The Student has been invited to contribute to making a change.  I am extremely confident that our company and others can pick up the pace to join in the discussion and action necessary to improve.

Were we began by responding to what programs are in place.  What effort is being taken has transitioned to thinking about what source is the genesis of this question as being sustainability or sustenance.  The answer we suspect in fact contains a much broader sensibility to feel around to accept the obligation as being societal as much as it an industry concern.  I doubt greatly there is any sustainability that will come from a patchwork plan towards maintaining the status quo.

The student has learned that asking a question has pioneered a path to discover there is a job to be done.  This is exciting – we think this is great!  Get it wrong and we’re all going to be living in a massive junk heap.

Start with a budget Plan Outline. Then you will know if the product is workable, how much you will need to spend. If you can (or should) afford to make the product the labour to Cut and Sew can be determined by simple process of elimination.

Any garment you plan to make, may be difficult to price compete when thinking – Made in Canada – especially for a small brand wholesale/distributor.

Here is what is recommended a product developer can do about that… This task, routinely given back to our customer – has become an important reality check that can help secure cooperation with any sewing contractor – the information is also helpful to pattern discussion and financial planning too.

This way you can shop the job,  by sharing the target cost of Labour up front, and learn real fast if the item is appropriate to your brand begins with understanding the components planned in Production.

We assume the garment is to be made – exactly as you imagine it should be done.


Then, ask these questions:

What is the Maximum Retail Value for the item you plan to produce?

Identify with the lowest price brand you will face as a competitor?

Compare the price Value equation as an understanding: What does the estimate Wholesale need to be for your offer to generate sales…Your business model may have flexibility for price averaging for profit (some units you sell at full Retail price) and the inventory you wholesale – may be considered surplus or special event, marketed for discount as a buy in incentive as long as there is some (any amount of profit) your wholesale margin can at times be very slim.

Do the numbers: What Brand position are you taking? (Some brands rarely go on sale) they stake claim to premium and stay there. The product is good so the price charged is respectable, Made in Canada.

Calculate the Budget and Generate a Product Plan Outline:

This is the “Workings” – your Job as Brand Manager/Designer.

Guesstimate: Allow (X) amount of cloth Example: (2.5) meters per (jacket).
Is the garment/Jacket lined….?

Or unlined…. (Take this as your $ cost – part 1)

Now – Plan your Fabric Buy – no cloth, nothing to cut, nothing to sew…

Purchase the best quality – of the lowest price fabric – Yes, this is possible…

Yes, you buy the cloth – that makes you the producer, Important to qualify if you ever plan for Export.

Make a list of components: the item will need per unit. (very important)

As Example: a plain Zipper (coil, brass, metal, nylon tooth other, we can supply – routine. Thread too.

Add Extra Cost Allowance: If, you order an inventory of Custom Zipper with embossed or engraved brand icon – the right choice of quality finishing accessory or surface treatment can drive sales…

You may want to specify we use some woven labels and other notion details such as branded buttons or snaps… this becomes an area worthy of capital investment useful to possibly more than one style#.

Evaluate importance of these findings if an allowance is given for moderate up front cost – your value add – as a special feature – for ideas visit the Direct Current Style – Notion Gallery – page.

Now your budget plan is generating a list of factors:

Sub Total the Above List: (stuff) Components – The Parts:

If that number has room for Sewing Labour – then you are on the right track.

The Simple Math looks like this:

Fabric (1) Main Fabric x (An Amount of Cloth per Garment )m.

Fabric (2) Lining x (An Amount of Cloth per Garment )m.

Snaps, Zippers, Woven Label, Other (Stuff):

Sub Total:
Ad buffer to Cost of goods for Some Packaging and Freight: $ An Amount – per garment packaging (ad poly bag + boxes)

LOOK at Your Profit line between Retail / wholesale and cost of goods (hey everyone wants to make some money)

Show the “Raw Material Guestimate as an Allowance”:

With story board Images (these you have supplied).

Review: the Target Retail?
Observe: the Target Wholesale?
The process of elimination yields: New Sub Total:
Your Budget for the Labour Factor is: X (Unknown) becomes obvious if the price plan needs to be adjusted. (or pass / don’t do it)

Getting Back to the Basic Parts… you will now know if what you want to make is workable – if proper fabric type can be found.

If your price model will support a reasonable wage rate for “Made in Canada” – the above will determine viability.

And, you need a Pattern? – Brand refined fit – A First of Run Sample – OK – when booking the business, Set aside: $500 for that part.

Is there enough cash on hand for 60 units? (20 x Med, 20 x Large, 20 x – XL)

Do you have access to Market via what Plan? Are you ready to go? Can you arrange preorder and increase volume or like crowd funding perks – supply fixture… to gain commitments and volume build the opportunity.

Spend when you are ready. Allow 3 months lead time from the ready point of supply – organize raw materials in advance for the first order.

To best generate a Labour Allowance – you need to know what the item is being made from and why.

Examples of BC domestic garment sewing work can be found on the pages of your local newsstand now.kelly rowland shape magazine october 2013 cover

This Month – Kelly Rowland is pictured wearing a few Beth Richards designs in Shape Magazine. A proud contributor to the engineering of the garments from Beth’s original design concept line drawings is our very own, Cyndi Schuring, production coordinator and owner of DirectCurrentMfg.com.  Beth, Cyndi and the staff at Direct Current manufacturing took the garments through several stages of handling enabling Beth to grow her business marketing her brand worldwide.

Careful management of the patterning, cutting and test sewing was required for each item before making their way, to final bulk order production at this proudly Canadian, privately owned, apparel design and production facility quietly located in Vancouver, BC.

Direct Current Manufacturing produces finished goods for established and emerging designers in several categories of kelly rowland shape magazine october 2013 inside“ready to wear”. Capabilities of this sewing shop includes the latest Gerber Digital Pattern management, Expert Cut and Sew for all types of clothing is performed by seasoned industrial sewing technicians. Direct Current offers aspiring designers access to small batch production, custom made-to-order services, consultation and design of cocktail dress, fancy tops, fancy bottoms, sportswear, swimwear, leisure wear, and more.

Nice Style Beth.
Good Job Cyndi.